Just across the river Pt. 2: Missing the bus and making friends

After a tranquil day in Colonia, I took a bus Friday night to Uruguay's capital, Montevideo, just three hours away.

One of Torres Garcia's colorful creations

While tourists might be just as ubiquitous in this urban city as they were in teeny Colonia, Montevideo is also teeming with plenty of locals who go about their business undeterred by the mobs of travelers.  Aesthetically, the city is something of a mutt: the building tops with their elaborate spirals and textures resemble Gaudi's Barcelona; the uneven sidewalks filled with pedestrians are nearly identical to their Buenos Aires counterparts; and the lackluster beaches (well, the single one I saw) seemed to channel the Spanish island, Mallorca.

The grand Teatro Solis at night

Rather than sunbathe in one of the nearby beaches, I skipped swimming in the silty river in favor of some "culture" time.  In the morning, I sampled some Uruguayan music with a local shopkeeper; at midday I took a tour of the magnificent Teatro Solis; and in the afternoon I browsed the Saturday Flea Market (mate gourd, anyone?) before checking out the gallery of Torres Garcia, one of Uruguay's most acclaimed artists.  The end of my day was delicious— literally.  Following the advice of my Lonely Planet Guidebook, I dined at a swanky cafe with a view of the illuminated Teatro Solis to keep me company as I savored the curry chicken with pineapple.

Jewelry, knick knacks and even mink

Overall, my adventure to Uruguay was a breath of fresh air that I relished.  Traveling solo is always hit or miss, but luckily this trip was a smash.  Even though I missed my bus and boat back to Buenos Aires Sunday afternoon (don't ask), everything worked out in the end.  Uruguyans, whether natives or Argentine expats, are an amicable and chivalrous lot.  One of the friends I made in Montevideo, Pepe, was a 75-year-old bakery owner (and true caballero) who walked me all the way to the bus station, helped me buy my return ticket and then treated me to a coffee.  Another was Susan, who after visiting her siblings in Montevideo, was my travel buddy back to Argentina.

Phantom of the opera? Nah, just the solo traveler

In short, every 90 days my visa expires, and I have to leave Argentina.  It might not be the most convenient arrangement, but it's nice to know that just across the river are some interesting sites to explore and friendly people to meet.

Maybe next time I'll discover how the Uruguyans managed to become even more obsessed with mate than the Argentines.  In all seriousness, is it really necessary to strap the thermos to your back and tote the mate gourd around all day? 

Oh, Uruguay....