Friday, January 14, 2011

Why yerba needs mate

It might look like coffee, but there's a green hue in that brew

It occurred to me, that I have never really explained the blog's title.  Café is the Spanish word for coffee, and mate (pronounced mah-tay, not like an Australian buddy) is more or less the Argentine national beverage.  Dried leaves from a holly-like plant make up the herb (yerba), which is typically served with hot water in a hollowed-out gourd (calabeza).  Because the gourd is filled with leaves, a filter straw (bombilla) is used to prevent any prickly bits from traveling down your throat.

Bag of yerba and a silver mate
As Lonely Planet put it, Argentines and Uruguayans people carry their mates the way we tote around our Starbucks in the United States.  But unlike your favorite skinny caramel frappaccino, mate is a communal drink that is meant to be shared with friends, colleagues and even ESL teachers.  To say that mate is an acquired taste is an understatement.  Most nonnatives would rather drink swamp water than the bitter beverage, which I can only describe as green-tea-meets-smoked-tree-bark.  Call my taste buds tasteless, but I kind of enjoyed it, and so did a few other expats.  But then again, we liked fernet too.

The Yanqui way uses a tea ball
Before leaving Argentina I finally bought my own gourd (I had been mooching off my students) and stocked up on yerba.  But instead of investing in a sturdy, more modern vessel, I went for the traditional, decorative model.  Big mistake.

The paint has stained my fingers, and the inside of the gourd has given rise to a  bacterial jungle.  Apparently my knowledge of drinking mate does not extend to preparing it.  Today I decided to try an unconventional approach that would make a seasoned drinker cringe: I used two tea filters to make mate in a coffee mug.  It might be borderline blasphemous, but until I can find another calabeza, it's my best bet.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Have tunnel, will heist

Feliz Año Nuevo to any dedicated followers who are still checking the blog after weeks of inactivity.  After Thanksgiving in Florida, I stayed put for the holidays, which was a nice respite from the previous year, which involved traveling around Virginia for Christmas and flying to Argentina on New Year's Eve. 

It's hard to believe that one year ago I was visiting the riverfront suburb of Tigre and making my first trip through the giant San Telmo Market.  To make things even more surreal, one of my closest friends just began his TEFL program in Guadalajara, Mexico, so I get to dole out advice while vicariously experiencing the adventure again.

Right now I'm having an internal debate as to whether "Café & Mate," should continue as a travel blog or whether I should create a new one (theme: to-be-determined).  Readers, if you're out there, please share your opinions in the comments section.

"How they reached the booty," courtesy of Clarín

In the meantime, I bring you this gem of a news story: Thieves robbed a branch of Banco Provincia by constructing an underground tunnel from their rented building to the vault.  Following the financial crisis in 2001, many Argentines began to keep their money and valuables in security deposit boxes rather than their bank accounts.  One-hundred thirty-six of these boxes were swindled, and for that I sympathize with the victims.  But following the shooting of a pregnant woman and several other equally violent robberies, I must credit the tunnel crooks for their nonviolent plan... and their architectural know-how.  Apparently the 100-foot tunnel had lights and a ventilation system.

Certainly this incident doesn't bode well for the country's chronically shaky economy, but its lack of brutality is a bit reassuring.