Magnificent Mendoza Pt. 1: El vino anima...

Jackie and I with our new friend Stephan, after stop #2.

On the western edge of Argentina is an affluent province known as Mendoza.  Located at the base of the Andes and a short seven-hour bus ride from Santiago, it has a rugged feel that is reminiscent of the American Southwest.  In recent decades, the area has boomed as a wine hotspot: dry air, consistent weather and varying altitudes make Mendoza ideal for the tender grapes.  The relatively cheap cost of land (especially if you're converting from dollars, euros or pounds) make it tempting real estate for would-be winemakers.

We had multiple toasts

My friend Jacqueline and I— both self-professed winos— were eager to visit wine country and sample Argentina's best, including the famous Malbecs and Bornardos.  Our first night in the city of Mendoza (capital of the region of the same name), we visited the swanky Vines of Mendoza wine bar to begin our marathon tasting (and no, we did not spit, we swallowed).  Our sommelier, Julian, proceeded to educate us on wine analysis: how to tell if it's full-bodied or medium-bodied; how to swirl it to check the "legs;" and how to smell it before sipping.  It might sound like we were well on our way to becoming snobs, but our ongoing competition to guess the notes (imagine two girls sticking their noses in the wineglass and then shouting out flavors like tobacco and cheese) kept us humble.  My nose still has much to learn...

Delicious and fresh from the vine

The second day we met some friends who are students in Buenos Aires for a biking tour in Maipú, a vineyard-filled town just 45 minutes from Mendoza.  As we made our way around tasting rooms and outdoor terraces— even plucking grapes straight from the vine at one point— the words of my great-grandfather Sancho echoed in my mind: "El vino anima, pero no ayuda."  Wine livens you up, but it doesn't help.  Perhaps he wrote that after riding a bike while slightly inebriated.

The day was perfect: sunny skies, mild temperatures, excellent wine and wonderful company.  And despite the large amount of wine consumption, none of us fell off our bikes or got hit by a car.  Pedaling back to the rental shop that evening, we couldn't help but break out into Queen's "Bicycle."

One hundred barrels of wine...

Should anyone wonder about our exuberance, they need only look at our purple-stained teeth to know how we'd spent the day.