Journey to Patagonia Pt. 2: 'I Love Puerto Madryn'

After miles and miles of empty desert, Puerto Madryn looked like some sort of mirage nestled next to the lapis-hued ocean.  Although the trip took 20 hours, it was still hard to believe that this small city could be the antithesis of Buenos Aires in so many ways.  The streets, shops and even beach were far from crowded, while the temperature was mild and the air quite dry for being so close to the sea.  But the most surprising difference was how easily we could understand the Patagonians.  Perhaps the Buenos Aires accent is like a thick New York one: virtually indecipherable to non-native speakers.

Despite the fact that we planned our trip last minute, we were able to stay at the wonderful La Tosca Hostel (check their photos later and you might see us!)  The staff were very friendly, and the outdoor courtyard was the perfect place to sip wine, sunbathe and meet fellow travelers.  Each morning we were served complimentary coffee/tea and sweet cakes of dulce de leche, sweet potato and quince prepared by a professional chef (nice, right?)  The kitchen was big enough and stocked with plenty of utensils and tools that we cooked just about every night of our stay—  it was probably the healthiest food we'd eaten since arriving in Argentina.

Although Puerto Madryn seemed a bit empty during our visit, there was plenty to do.  We rented two double kayaks for an hour and zoomed over the bumpy waves while getting a bit soaked at the same time.  For those of you who remember a certain capsizing-kayak incident in the Virgin Islands about 10 years ago, you will be happy to know that these kayaks did not leak or leave us stranded in the ocean.  However, when Jackie and I attempted to switch spots, the kayak flipped, tossing me a couple of feet away.  I might have a bruise the size of a lemon on my thigh, but I am happy to say that I've conquered my fear of kayaks.

We rented bicycles from the same company that provided the kayaks with the intention of pedaling 17 kilometers to Punta Loma to see the sea lions.  A combination of bike malfunctions, large tour buses and steep hills forced us to shorten our trek to about two kilometers.  We stopped at a small lookout point complete with the Argentine flag, rocky cliffs, mussel-filled tidal pools and a miniature cave.  My pictures cannot do this place justice, but it was sight I could have soaked up for hours.